One Mountaineer's Story of Summiting Mount Hood
Meet Nils Martinsson, a native Oregonian with a relentless energy for adventure! A weekday commodities broker by trade, he lives for reckless adventure on the weekend! Jenna & I met Nils soon after we moved to Oregon through mutual friends, and were blown away by his adventurous spirit! He recently climbed Mt. Hood and I wanted to get a better perspective on what it was like, and if it's something anybody can do.
Why climb Mount Hood?
I got into Mountaineering 4 years ago. Ever since my first peak, I've been hooked. It's the most rewarding past time I've stumbled upon in life so far. Being an Oregonian, and Hood being the tallest and most prominent peak in the area, it's been on my list of to-do's ever since I came into the sport. Climbing is my passion. It's the only thing that makes me truly feel alive. I want to climb it all!
Can anyone climb Mount Hood?
It takes a certain level of physical fitness, but more than that its a mental gig. I would say with the right preparation and training anyone could do it! My advice to newer climbers is try finding a climber who's done it before and ask them to take you up.
Who did you climb with?
Two of my friends, Nacho and Chase. Climbing can be done in groups or solo. For new climbers, or even experienced climbers on new routes, it's always a good idea to travel in groups. That way if something goes wrong you have partners there to assist you or vice versa. On roped climbs that require a lead and follow at the minimum, for example, it's imperative that you have a partner there with you on the climb and you work together on the rope, which insures the safety of both climbers.
Which route did you take to climb Mount Hood?
We made our ascent up the popular and most commonly climbed, "south side route", otherwise referred to as "hogsback". This route starts at the Timberline Lodge parking lot. For the first couple of miles, there's a well-defined climber's trail up the east side of the Timberline Ski Resort. Once past the ski hill, the trail ends and you hit the deep snow. Trudging more or less directly up-hill for another mile, you'll pass "illumination rock" and reach the top of the "Hogsback." From here, you can look down on steaming sulfur vents in the "devil's kitchen" and off to your left is the hot rocks. After the "hogsback" we shot past the "Pearly Gates" and crossed the "bergsschrund", which is where the glacier splits off the rocks on the top of the mountain.
During winter months this is typically covered by a snow bridge, and the crevasse is hidden beneath deep snow. The crevasse can be very dangerous during summer months when the snow covering is thin. Fortunately, it's been a bountiful snow year so we were able to pass right over and not think twice. After crossing the "bergsschrund", you head up through what is called the, "old chute." this is about 500 feet of very steep climbing through incredible rock formations plastered in brine, and very romantic looking ice formations. Once out of the shoot and up top, the true summit is approximately 90 meters to the east!
How long did it take to summit Mount Hood?
We departed Rip City a little after 2:00 AM and ended up hitting the trail at 3:55 AM. 6 hours up and 5 hours down. I had anticipated it taking significantly less but I also planned on it taking significantly longer. That's a basic principle in mountaineering, set your goals high, but expect the worst!
What sort of climbing gear do you need for a winter Mt. Hood summit?
The answer to this question depends on the ascent and descent routes you select. We summited via the south "Hogsback" side of the mountain. This route is the easiest of all ascent/descent routes on Hood. For this route during the winter necessary gear includes;
- Breathable, synthetic layers
- Long johns
- Nice undershirt
- Insulated puffy jacket
- Waterproof outer shell
- Warm socks
- Good mountain boots
- Waterproof gloves
- Hat
- Helmet
- Eyewear to protect from the glare on the snow
- Crampons
- Food
- Water
- Camera
What was the most enjoyable part of summiting Mount Hood?
Watching the sunrise from the summit of a mountain is perhaps one of the coolest I've ever seen. It's a god-damn life changing experience very few people live to see!
What was the scariest part of summiting Mount Hood? If any?
There wasn't really any especially "scary" moments on this climb for myself, but one of my climbing partners did experience a bit of altitude sickness. This did worry me because having a partner go down is a big deal for the whole climbing crew and can be dangerous for everyone. Fortunately, he powered through it and all was well.
What did it feel like reaching the summit of Mount Hood?
Making those last few moves to the top of a climb is always a very special feeling. You worked really hard to get there and put up with a lot of discomfort on the way up for it, so its undoubtedly and incredibly rewarding feeling when you finally pull up on top. It's the purest manifestation of reward for hard work I know of. It is a humbling, beautiful feeling.
When is your next big adventure?
As soon as possible. I don't know with who yet. It's too early to start planning. I am just going to hold off on details and when the time comes around, I'm sure I'll be able to drag a couple buddies off their couches.
Why do you love climbing mountains?
The question is sort of funny to me. I mean why do we really climb? We put ourselves through immense physical trials and risk our lives in some cases, and sacrifice all modern comforts in life. But when you get to the top of whatever it is you're climbing, there's really nothing up there, so you just turn back around and head back down. It's a mental sport, spiritual in a way for some or maybe even most climbers. I don't know. One thing I'm certain of is I've learned more about myself, life, and the world around me doing this sport than I have in anything else. It's a beautiful thing and I intend to do it as long as I can!